Backstitch A stitch sewn one stitch length backward on the front side and two stitch lengths forward on the reverse side to form a solid line of stitching on both sidesBar tack A very short thread reinforcement for stress points
Baste To sew with long loose stitches in order to hold something in place temporarily
Bias A line at a 45-degree angle to the selvage often utilized in the cutting of garments for smoother fit
Boxing The long horizontal strip of fabric that connects the top and bottom of a seat cushion
Buckram A stiff open-weave fabric used mainly for interfacing
Clean finish To stitch 1/4" from the edge and press to the wrong side (if the raw edge won't be stitched down in another step, stitch down)
Ease To make one piece of fabric fit onto another by evenly pulling in the extra fabric with out making any gathers or tucks
Edge-stitch A row of stitching that appears on the very edge of a garment, normally 1/8" or less
Facing A piece of fabric used to reinforce another, usually at a seam
Fashion fabric The outer fabric in a garment
Finger press To open seam allowances with the thumbnail
Flat felled seam A durable type of seam generally found on jeans
French seam A strong seam stitched on both sides of the fabric to enclose all raw edges
Fusible fabric A thin layer of material containing adhesive that is activated with a hot iron
Gather To pull (fabric) along a line of stitching so as to draw into puckers
Give Degree of elasticity
Grade To trim each seam allowance to a different width to reduce bulk
Grain The direction of threads in cloth
Hand The feel of or tactile reaction to something (as silk or leather)
Interfacing An extra layer of fabric that provides shape and support in the detail area of a garment
Interline To sew a lining between the ordinary lining and the outside fabric
Miter A diagonal fold made at the corner in an edge finish
Nap A hairy or downy surface of a fabric ("with nap" refers to any fabric surface that looks different when held up or down)
Pile A coat or surface of usually short close fine furry hairs
Rolled hem A hem created by folding the raw edge under 1/8 to1/4" twice and topstitching
Seam allowance The area of fabric between the stitching and the cut edge
Self-fabric The fabric from which a garment is made
Selvage The edge on either side of a woven or flat-knitted fabric, finished to prevent raveling
Stay-stitch Stitching done to stabilize fabric and help pieces fit together
Stitch in the ditch Pressing the seam allowances to one side and topstitching as close as possible to the seam
Tack (see bar tack)
Topstitch To make a line of stitching on the outside of a garment close to a seam
Tuft The dimpling or bunching of fabric that occurs when a button is pulled tightly against padded fabric
Understitch (see stitch in the ditch)
